Hiking Patagonia’s W Trek: what nobody tells you

The W Trek in Torres del Paine is often called the most beautiful walk in South America. It is also one of the windiest. Here is what I wish someone had told me before my first season.

Book refugios early

Beds and campsites open for booking in the spring and sell out within weeks. Without a confirmed reservation you will not be allowed on the trail.

Respect the wind

Gusts of 100 km/h are common near Lago Pehoé. Carry trekking poles, pack a proper hard-shell jacket and never stand close to the edge on the Grey glacier viewpoint.

Start the final climb to the base of the towers at 4am. Watching the granite turn orange is worth every step in the dark.

Pack for four seasons

You can see sun, rain, hail and snow in one afternoon. Layers beat bulk every time.

Go with a guide the first time

A guide handles permits, refugio bookings and weather calls, and knows the side trails where you can escape the busiest sections.