Norway’s fjords by rail and ferry: a slow guide
How to link Bergen, Flåm and Geiranger without a car, and the one ferry you must not miss.
More than two thousand limestone islands rise out of Ha Long Bay, and on a busy day it can feel as if a thousand boats are circling them. The good news: the quietest corners are only a short sail away.
Choose Lan Ha Bay
Just south of Ha Long, Lan Ha has the same towering karsts and green water but a fraction of the traffic. Boats leave from Cat Ba island.
Stay overnight
The magic happens after the day boats go home. Kayak into hidden lagoons at sunset and wake up to mist between the islands.
Ask for a cabin on the upper deck, and set an alarm for sunrise. The bay is silent at 5:30am.
Best months
March to May and September to November bring calm seas and clear skies.
Written by
Mei Lin Harper
Japan Programme Lead. Japan · 11 years guiding.
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